India 2019
Day 1: Arrived at Bangalore airport around 12:30am and made our way through e-visa review/customs. We were then greeted by Ash and Shreesha! Met Ramish, a driver for Shreeshaâs family – dropped Ash off and got to Shreeshaâs around 3am. Went to sleep and woke up to the bustling city around 6:45 and luckily fell back asleep until 11. Met Chinmayi and went out for delicious breakfast at XXX – plain dosa, masala dosa, k-something-bath (sweet and spicy versions), vada (in yogurt), rava idli. Went back to the house with Shreesha and set up the phone with SIM card. Ramish then drove us around Bangalore, showing us Abidjanâs Soudha (Bangalore Parliament) and then dropping us off to explore Bangalore Palace and gardens. We then rode around and walked through Ulsoor Lake. Later that night, walked down Brigade street with Shreesha, tried Wow momos (dumplings) and ate at Empire – chicken dosa and Empire Paratha with Paneer Gravy.
Day 2: Jet-lag was terrible, woke up at 3am. Started with a 7am morning walk at Cubbon Park, walked passed High Court, then ate at Hotel Chalukya. Came home then off to Tipu Sultanâs Palace and Bangalore Central Market (Krishna Rajendra) to see the wholesale flower and food merchants. For lunch went to Nagar for south India buffet on a banana leaf. Headed home for some R&R, then off again to Lalbagh Botanical Garden. Later went out in an auto-rickshaw for dinner at a traditional Chinese restaurant. Came home for the last time and the rain rocked us to sleep!
Day 3: Woke up today at 5am and Amanda woke up at 8am. We are getting acclimatized! Had breakfast at an air conditioned restaurant Udupi Park, boy was it cold. Came home and drove 1.5 hours to Nandi Hills. Nandi Hills are full of Monkeys (one eating ice cream!), micro-frogs, interesting insects, beautiful scenery, and awesome locals. For lunch we went to Indian Paratha Company for paneer paratha. Clumsy me spilled the chutney all over, but we did make a friends with a cat. Stopped for a coconut and a night walk through the park. Then finished off the day with leftovers, custard apple, fried tapioca pears that tasted like buttered popcorn, and Laddu (sugar and ground sesame seeds, tasted like the inside of a butter finger).
Day 4: Finally over jet-lag! Woke up at 7:30am. Shreeshaâs Mother, Getha, made us rice poori and fresh coconut-peanut curry for breakfast. After, Shreeshaâs Sister, Chinmayi, invited us to family day at her work, Goldman Sachs. What an amazing party, there were games, a tour, concert, and amazing lunch. Lunch was buffet style from all over India and the world, with a dessert bar that was out of this world! After family day we went shopping at Pothys – 7 floors of dazzling clothing and ceiling fixtures. For dinner we went to an upscale Italian restaurant, Chianti, where I had Neapolitan pizza and Amanda had Eggplant Raviolis. For dessert we had tiramisu!
Day 5: Went to Malleshwaram for breakfast Dosas at CTR, then enjoyed tender coconut water and figs from a street vendor. Wandered down Commercial street for shopping and tailoring. Then we had a night on the town with Aishwarya! First was Tipsy Bull (buy drinks via stock exchange), out for some street Momoâs, then 1131 bar. Went out again for some Pav bhaji, then to Toit for some local craft beers and Fried Macaroni Balls, and finally home to pack for our flight to Delhi and backpacking back south!
Day 6: Woke up early for a flight to New Delhi. We arrived at 11:30 and were greeted by our driver and guide with with fresh flower lays. First stop Sunder Nursery – beautiful and vast garden with peacocks, unique architecture and sculptures, plus waterways. Left there to drive around the city and see the capital buildings and India gate. We then surprised our tour guide by requesting to see yet another park, Lodhi Gardens! He was concerned because he felt he wasnât doing his job, i.e. showing us monuments and shopping. Finally made it to our quaint Airbnb which was walking distance to a couple street vendors where we found delicious momos, fruit and bread.
Day 7:
Met with Shu for an incredible breakfast at Haldiramâs! Shu went all out, trying to fatten us up with an assortment of street food – our favorites were pani puri (a crisp that you punch a hole in to fill with goodies) and Raj kachori (tastes like sweet and savory nachos). Stopped by a bazaar to learn about handmade rugs and see various other textiles and handicrafts. We then visited the Swaminarayan Akshardham Temple, an immaculate temple that took 300 million man hours to carve. Cameras were not allowed inside, so sharing a photo from their website. Took an indoor boat tour through an exhibit highlighting life style and innovations over the years. Lastly, embarked on the 4 hour drive to Agra.
Day 8: Left our Airbnb around 6am to walk to the Taj Mahal! We entered via the East Gate and were entranced by the perspective changes as the sun rose and we got closer. We caught an electric tuktuk ride back for a mix of local and homemade goods for breakfast. We then wandered through the Agra Fort, a sandstone and marble fortress and palace. Next was the Mehtab Bagh, a garden across the river from the Taj Mahal. Our last stops in Agra were to see local art in progress – gorgeous stone inlays and elaborate embroidery. On our way to Jaipur, we stopped at the Chand Baori, a 13 story step well mirrored across 3 adjacent walls. Finally arrived in Jaipur around 8pm. Our Airbnb had walls covered in artwork from prior guests.
Day 9: Enjoyed homemade parathas and chai for breakfast on the sun deck of our Airbnb. Drove around Jaipur, also known as the Pink City, seeing Hawa Mahal (Wind Palace) and various shops before the rest of the city woke up. Hiked through the mountains to Galta Ji, or Monkey Temple! Lastly, we stopped by Jaipur City Palace before making the 8 hour journey to Udaipur. Made it to our Airbnb at 8pm and were amazed by the artistic design of the home and various art mediums displayed everywhere! Learned that their family has 4 generations of artists, some architecture (designed their home), some sculptors, some oil painters. We had a delightful dinner with the whole family and canât wait to see the house in the morning light!
Day 10: Awoke in an art museum, and made egg and cheese sandwiches in our attached mini kitchen. Our AirBnB host gave us the grand tour of their environmentally friendly artist estate. Then off to Animal Aid Unlimited sanctuary (https://animalaidunlimited.org). We volunteered in the morning to help animals in need. Massaged handicapped dogs, bottle fed calfs, brushed sheep, and helped re-splint the legs of two cows. Took a quick tour of Udaipur, saw the lake palace. Lastly, made our way to Ahmedabad through a million detours.
AirBnB: Charul and Akash it was a pleasure staying in your art gallery. What a treat to have amazing company, great food, mental and visual stimulation.
To make our stay smoother here are some recommendations. First, the google pin was perfect, but sending a picture of the front, or having a landmark outside your entrance would better identify your home. Next, the bed has a huge width but a small length, I had to sleep at an angle or my feet hung off. Also, the kitchen was fantastic, but navigating was a little challenging, I couldnât find the salt and pepper, I found the salt after cooking breakfast and exploring the kitchen and looking in the metal spice dish. Maybe labeling would help. I know India doesnât use trash bags and I feel weird throwing wet garbage (eggs, food, and broken sponge) into the wet trash. When was cleaning the dishes the sink soap was unfamiliar to me, but reading the directions helped.
Lastly, the shower. It took some time but I believe I figure it out the plumbing. I dont know what the two knobs do. And I didnât know what the three unlabeled bottles where, soap-shampoo-lotion?
It was truly a pleasure to stay in your art studio and home – what amazing company, conversation, and food!
Here are a couple recommendations for improving future stays:
-The google pin was perfect, but sending a photo or having a landmark at the entrance would make it easier to identify your home, especially at night.
-Let guests know that bed is 6â – likely wonât affect most!
-Kitchen was fantastic, but navigating was a little challenging. James didnât find salt and pepper until cleaning the dishes, after cooking and eating.
-When cleaning the dishes, the sink soap was unfamiliar to me, but reading the directions helped.
-Add labels for the bottles in the bathroom to identify which is soap/shampoo/etc.
Animal Aid
Tour
A: Dog Therapy, bottle fed calfâs, remixes ticks from paralyzed dog.
J: clean farm animal pin with rake, lifted cow with straps, brushed sheep, bottle fed calfâs, held down cows head while leg-splint was changed. Messages dog with broken back.
Day 11: Had another great homemade breakfast before heading to Dinosaur Park! Strolled through the rest of the park to see the botanical gardens and zoo. Tried and failed to see Frozen 2 – in Hindi, but no subtitles đ˘ Went to our Airbnb early to get some rest before waking up at 2 for our flight to Mumbai, where weâll hang out with Rahul!
Day 12: Up at 2:13am for a 6:30am flight to Mumbai. Said goodbye to our driver, and Ahmedabad. TSA Xray machine ate my sunglasses. Once we landed in Mumbai, we got an UBER rickshaw to Bandra Fort. Then met up with Rahul and Dev to see the Haji Ali mosque. Afterwards we took a ferry to Elephanta Caves. Once back on the mainland had lunch at Leopold CafĂŠ for some Indian fusion penne pasta and spaghetti sandwiches. Then drove three hours to Pune. Washed off the road dust and checked out Hight Spirts bar – enjoyed savory butter chicken pizza.
Flight to Mumbai
Bandra fort and suspension bridge
Elephanta CafĂŠ
Leonard CafĂŠ spaghetti sandwich
Drive to Pune
Day 13: Time to relax in Pune⌠solved the newspaper puzzles, ate, and went shopping. For lunch we had amazing homemade keema biriyani (mutton rice) with peas and roti. Then went to the department store for wedding kurtas (Indian shirt). Followed by the jewelry bazaar, where Amanda purchased some beautiful pieces. Stopped by street venders for some figs, sugar cane, and spicy alma (gooseberry). Then off to the shoe district, and Amanda got some purple wedges for the wedding. Made our way to the âDragonâ mall – explored a supermarket, toy store, clothing store, had snacks at the food court, and played a throwing game at the arcade. Back home for a late dinner of momos and pav bhaji (bread with vegetables).
Great song: Boom boom goes my heart – Alex Swings Oscar Sings!
Day 14: I made Breakfast for everyone this morning, we had egg, cheese, and bacon sandwiches. Then off to the jungle – Tahini Ghats via Mulshi, saw the countryside and lake. Snacked on vada pav (potato burger). On the way back had masala paneer with fresh butter chicken for lunch. Then off to Hippy@heart bar and restaurant. Afterwards had chaat (street food) at Kalyan Bhel – we had pani puri, vegetable grilled cheese sandwich, and SPDP. Then off to High Spirits for Indian Idol. Rahulâs friend Erica sang âI feel goodâ by Avril Lavigne, she has a magical voice!
Day 15: Awoke, had breakfast and hiked Fergusson hills with Rahul. Headed back, got changed and went shopping at Central (department store). Amanda got some kurtis and flowy pants. Then we picked up our luggage and had lunch at Vaishali. Had the tastiest cheese dosa, and Uttapa (cheese, tomato, onion, dosa pizza). Then off to the airport, passed through Indiaâs Air Force security – a military airport that opened to citizen flights but is closed every Saturday. Our north western trip was over and we returned to Bangalore, time for the wedding! Joined the bachelorâs party at Byg Brewsky for amazing food, drinks and entertainment.
Day 16: Shreeshaâs mom made rice puri for breakfast. We walked to the tailor to get the wedding attire adjusted, and get a delicious mango lassi. Rode the moped back home for dosa classes with Shreeshaâs mom! The women split to the Mehendi party for henna designs (Amanda got her signature dinosaur!), dancing, great food, and making amazing new friends. While they were out, we went shopping for dhotis and waist coats. Once all together again, we watched dancing videos and ordered momos.
Thanksgiving isnât even over and the Christmas stores are open for business. Note they were not there last week, second they donât have Thanksgiving đ
Day 17: Savored homemade breakfast with the family, including eggs, idli, spiced chips, and rice. We all packed our bags for the wedding festivities, then the girls went out for jewelry while the guys went for haircuts (massage included!). Went out for a group lunch starting with mushroom 65 and lemon chicken followed by 5 amazing biryanis – lollipop chicken, special chicken, boneless chicken, egg, and prawns. Finally made our way to the Lemon Tree Hotel, got dressed and then off to the Tamarind Tree for the ring ceremony and cocktail reception/dance party! Photos canât even capture the elegance and spice â¤ď¸
Day 18: Made it to the hotel at 1:30am after the dance party and luckily received a wake up call from the hotel 7 hours later. Quickly dressed, grabbed some complimentary breakfast and left for Haldi, a ceremony where Haldi (turmeric) is applied to the bride and groom for health and beauty. Went back to the hotel to change and returned for 3 additional ceremonies. First was Sera Bandhi, where the groom and groomâs male relatives/friends tie turbans. Then Baraat, the groomâs procession on horse, preceded by family and friends dancing and launching fireworks. Lastly was Sangeeth, where dances are performed by relatives and friends, plus an amazing dance by Ash and Suryanshu themselves!
Day 19: Up early again for breakfast and preparing for the wedding day 3. James wore a waistcoat, kurta (shirt), and dhoti (wrap pants). I had a professional drape my saree, and got help from friends for adorning jewelry. We packed our luggage and headed out for the final wedding ceremony. Unfortunately we missed the first ceremony, but we got to see clothes get blessed by married women which the bride then changed into. This was followed by Kanyadaanam, where the father gives away the bride to the groom. Saptapadi came next with the couple walking around a sacred fire of prayer, each of the 7 circles as part of a vow. Then there were pictures, so many pictures! For lunch we had traditional South Indian Andra Style meal on a banana leaf. A small group got together to surprise Chin with cake for her birthday. Finally got back home, packed for our South India trip, and ordered takeout: chicken momos, veg rice, wontons, and prawn noodles.
Edit suggestions: 1. Between the kanyadaan and saptapadi was the most important part of the wedding where Shu tied a mangalsutra around Ash’s neck. That’s when they are officially married. 2. Make it South Indian Tamil Style meal. Andhra was what you had at that restaurant called Nagarjuna. Ash’s family is from Tamil Nadu
Day 20: Awoke from a terrible night, Iâve concluded my Malaria medicine is trying to kill me đ˘. We had rice stuffed dosas with cucumber slices and fresh watermelon juice. Met our driver Francis and embarked on our sigh India trip, starting off with Mysore. We stopped at the Ranganathittu Bird Sanctuary, took a boat and saw some crocodiles. Then to Brindavan Gardens which also has a beautiful water damn. Afterward saw St. Philomena’s Cathedral church and had lunch in a cave, it was a decorated hotel restaurant called Gufha. Walked around Mysore palace, was too late to enter, but met an elephant trainer.
Day 21: Enjoyed homemade dosas and chai at our Mysuru AirBnB and left for the 440+ km journey to Alleppey Backwaters. On our way we drove through Bandipur and Mudumalai National Parks, passing from the state of Karnataka to Tamil Nadu. Along these parks we spotted deer, peacocks, monkeys, and even an elephant! Later on, we drove up and around Queen Mountain in Ooty. We kept going up until not only our ears popped, but also all the water bottles in the car. Passed through breathtaking views of rolling hills and tea plantations, a major filming area amongst a forest of Eucalyptus trees. Stopped for paneer dosa, pani puri, and grilled vegetable sandwich in the main hub of Ooty. On our way back down we drove through thick blankets of clouds, forming practically a white wall off the mountainside. Imagine trying to drive with only a couple feet of visibility plus passing semis and buses in the short stretches between hairpin turns! Finally made it to our homestay around 10:30 and relaxed for a while in our private patio swings.
Day 22: Our auto-rickshaw picked us up at 7am and took us to our canoe guideâs house. Once there we befriended Billy, the golden lab, and had coconut-rice pancakes (dosa wraps) and an omelette for breakfast. Then we rode through narrow canals and open channels in a spectacular 4 hour canoe ride. Some call Alleppey Backwaters the Venice of India. After the ride, the guideâs brother greeted us with a sweet orange drink, then came the feast: fried chicken, vegetables, beet dressing, rice, green beans, and poori. Took the auto rickshaw back. Picked up our bags and headed to Mannur, first making a quick stop to try both young and mature coconut water. The trip was lush and covered with tea plantations, and the road snaked through the mountains. Stopped for dinner at Alibaba and the 41 Dishes for mutton biryani and butter chicken. Lastly, made it to our homestay, Wild Mist by Monktree, greeted by the family.
Day 23: Had eggs, fruit, toast, and juice for breakfast on our patio with a breathtaking view. After checking out, we hiked the local mountain. Then we drove to Eravikulam National Park. We bought an entry ticket, bus pass up part of the mountain, and spiced popcorn. At the top we saw 3 Tahr (endangered goat). Amanda and I hiked to the top of the mountain and the view was great – fauna and flora, pus mountains and clouds in all directions. Then we drove to Kodaikanal. The trip was full of wild animals and waterfalls. We stopped for dinner at a Tibetan restaurant for some noodles and momos. Lastly the home stay happened, long story short⌠it was terrible.
First the homestay was on a very narrow road, which our personal driver had a difficult time transversing. There was what seemed to be a commotion on the alley, and people yelling. The room was cold. The furniture was worn and abused. Everything was damp, but thatâs mostly because itâs a mountain village with constant moisture and rains. No WiFi and no cell service (airtel). Dirty sheets, no towels, moss growing on the windowsill. The pictures were false advertising. The âhotâ water barley got warm after 20 minutes of preheating. The flush buttons and toilet seat were broken. It was a miserable place.
Day 24: Woke up cold and packed. Headed to a local South Indian restaurant for a banana leaf plated with delicious vada and dosa. After breakfast we went to Bryant park and wandered down Coakers Walk. We then visited the Pillar Rocks and Guna Cave. Itâs amazing how clouds can engulf an entire mountain. Then we drove to Madurai to our final home stay for our India trip! Walked around the block for fresh chicken and corn pizza.
Day 25: Walked down the street for dosa and chais before making our way to Meenakshi Amman Temple, one of the oldest temples in India. Spent 2 hours wandering around and through the complex including the Hall of Thousand Pillars. Phones were not allowed inside, so sharing a couple from the beautiful web. We then embarked on the 440km drive back to Bangalore, entertained by passing scenery and questionable audiobooks. Stopped for lunch where we had dragon cauliflower, parotta with dal and potato soup, and fantastic paneer biryani. Once home, enjoyed a homemade meal of vegetable rotis and code belle. We then hung out with Shreesha and Tejal and passed out before Irina and Thanh got back from Goa (we originally planned to meet them near the airport for a final night out đ).
Codbelli- rice flower rings
Photo link https://www.nationalgeographic.com/travel/destinations/asia/india/meenakshi-amman-hindu-temple/
To do today (last day đ)
Day 26: Bittersweet. Not ready to leave the phenomenal company and great food, but at least our final day was a blast. Had the absolute best dosas made by Shreeshaâs mom for breakfast, including a dessert one with sugar instead of chutney. Made a checklist and started off to find everyoneâs favorite edibles. First was desserts – gulab jamun, cashew burfee, Mysore pak, kalakand, jalebi! Then coffee and sugar cane juice for Irinaâs insatiable sweet tooth. Wandered around commercial street for jewelry and anything else that caught our fancy. Hailed auto rickshaws to Savory for biryani and shawarma lunch before heading back to base to send off Irina and Thanh. Went back out for some final shopping, mostly gifts and some delicious snacks for work – Widjaja, please let everyone know that no riots will be necessary. Finally off to dinner at Nevermind, where everything was overpriced, but never mind that. Circled back to base for farewells and made our way to the airport where we now await a flight to freezing Philadelphia.
787
Movies Amanda watched on the flights
Going: Luka Chuppi, Aladdin, Detective Pikachu, Crazy Stupid Love
Returning: The Other Woman, Second Act, Life As We Know It, Frozen, Dumbo, How to Train Dragons 3
